This Chicken is Rockin'!

The amount of chicken breasts that I consume on a weekly basis can be staggering. It's my go-to protein - lean, easy to prepare, versatile. But at the end of the day, it's so very boring. Lord help me if I overcook it. There's really nothing worse than dry chicken breasts. Gack!

So recently, I veered from my rut and went for the chicken thighs in the butcher case. Thighs - with the skin! I had a hankering for something juicy, meaty, tender... and a chicken breast wasn't going to cut it. I even had in mind the way I wanted to cook them - similar to brick chicken on the grill, but done in the oven in a cast iron skillet. I envisioned them having a seared, crispy skin that would impart its flavor to the meat of the thighs, melding with the flavors of lemon, roasted garlic and fresh herbs. I was salivating at my vision for these thighs before a single ingredient ever hit the pan.

Proud to say this dish rocked. If it looks good in the picture, I can guarantee it tasted even better. You must try.

This is how you do it:

• Preheat your oven to 400 degrees
• You will need two cast iron skillets; one slightly larger to hold the chicken and the smaller one to weight and set on top (the second skillet will act as a clamshell grill, helping to cook the chicken thighs on both sides at once)
• Line the smaller skillet with tin foil and weight with either a brick, or in my case, rocks!
• Place the rock-filled skillet in the oven to get up to temperature as you prep the chicken and do the stovetop steps below
• Peel the cloves from an entire bulb of garlic; smash lightly with the flat side of a wide butcher knife
• Peel and finely dice one shallot
• Coat the bottom of a cast iron skillet with a glug of olive oil; add the shallot and garlic cloves
• Over medium/low heat on the stove, cook until the shallots and garlic are soft and caramelized
• Remove the shallots and garlic and turn the heat up on the skillet to high
• Lightly coat six chicken thighs with olive oil; sprinkle with kosher salt
• When the stovetop skillet is piping hot, place the thighs skin-side down
• Cook the thighs until the skins are seared to a beautiful brown color (approximately 7-8 minutes); remove the thighs from the skillet (leave any drippings) and remove the skillet from the heat (turn off the stove)
• Return the garlic and shallots to the bottom of the skillet
• Add a layer of fresh herb sprigs to the skillet; I used rosemary and lemon thyme
• Return the thighs to the skillet, skin side up
• Cut two lemons in quarters and squeeze the juice over the chicken; scatter the quarter rinds amongst the thighs
• Add another layer of fresh herb sprigs on top of the chicken
• Place the preheated second weighted skillet on top of the chicken-filled skillet; place the entire kit and caboodle back into the 400 degree oven
• Cook for approximately 20 minutes until the thighs are cooked through
• Eat up!

Toasted Pumpkin Seed Romesco Sauce

You know those times when you are really looking forward to trying a new dish, only to walk away less than impressed? Such was the case for me a couple of weeks ago. I was stepping up to a lovely catered meal - everything was fresh, gorgeous, healthy - a stunning spread. One of the main entrees was grilled chicken with what sounded like an amazing accompaniment: toasted pumpkin seed Romesco sauce. I was salivating.

Romesco sauce is a classic Spanish roasted red pepper and tomato sauce bursting with flavor and spice. It's made in its traditional form with almonds, hazelnuts, olive oil, roasted garlic, and sometimes even some stale breadcrumbs to add some tooth. Add some smoky paprika, some acid from a lime or red wine vinegar - and wow. You've got yourself a powerhouse of a sauce that tastes great when served with chicken or fish - or even just slathered on a chunk of rustic bread. I was looking forward to trying the caterer's twist on this favorite of mine.

Well, I shouldn't have been so anticipatory. Yawn. The sauce was boring, bland and almost an affront to the title. Romesco sauce, my ass. My disappointed parting thought from that otherwise stellar lunch was that I could do a much better job making the sauce. So that's just what I did.

This past weekend, some Utah Angells descended on Napa Valley and I had the delight of hosting my aunt, uncle and cousins for a BBQ. Not only was it a really fantastic get-together to hang out with family, it gave me a chance to try my hand on the sauce that had been on my mind for weeks. And it turned out great - just as flavorful and bold as a Romesco sauce should be! (Angells - back me up... right?)

So here I give you my version of toasted pumpkin seed Romesco sauce - and I promise it won't disappoint. It's super duper easy - it's basically a three-ingredient recipe, jazzed up with spices. I didn't use breadcrumbs, but did use a lot of pumpkin seeds in order to give it some body. This recipe makes a fair amount (I was feeding ten) - but any leftovers store really well in the fridge. I used the extra from our gathering over some spaghetti squash the next day... still delish.

Toasted Pumpkin Seed Romesco Sauce

• 1 cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
• 2 tsp. garlic salt
• 1+ Tbs. chili powder (give the seeds a good coating)
• Olive oil, enough to barely coat a large nonstick frying pan
  
  
• 3 roasted red peppers, skins removed (if you don't roast your own peppers, 1 12-ounce jar of roasted peppers, drained, is the equivalent)
• 1 cup tomato sauce
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 tbs. crushed garlic
• 2 tsp. smoked paprika
• Salt and pepper, to taste

On the stovetop, heat the olive oil. Add the pumpkin seeds and spices and toast until the seeds begin to pop. Stir constantly to avoid burning. Drain on a paper towel.

In a food processor, add all of the ingredients except for the olive oil and slat/pepper; puree until smooth. With the processor going, slowly drizzle in the olive oil to emulsify the sauce. Season to taste.

You can then heat it up on the stovetop if you'd like to serve it warm.

Miso Tasty: Miso Glaze - Good on Anything!

This post is for my dad. A few weeks back, he commented that lately he'd been enjoying quite a few meals out that featured "miso glaze" on this and that. He has a tendency - as do I - to frequent Asian restaurants, and was finding that he was really liking this miso thing; he wanted to know how to make it at home. Turns out, miso glaze is one of my favorite and super simple ways to jazz up a meal... so, a dinner party was born.

Over this glorious, rain-free (!) Memorial Day weekend, we got together à chez moi and grilled up a storm (grilling=requirement for the holiday, correct?). Chicken, veggies, and my favorite - salmon - all went on the grill, and although it tastes great when brushed on any of the above, the miso glaze was reserved for the fish this time around.

There's not much to it - you whisk together just a couple of ingredients, brush it on during the last stages of grilling or broiling, and voila - dinner done tasty. You don't need to season the fish, chicken or veggies with anything other than the glaze - it's got enough salt and flavor within the sauce to do the trick nicely all on its own.

As mentioned, salmon is my hands-down favorite miso glazed variation (the picture above is broiled wild Alaskan sockeye salmon with miso glaze, served with quinoa and spicy garlic fava beans... I could have that every night of the week!). But it's great on chicken and even steak as well. If you're going the veggie route, I suggest eggplant, asparagus, zucchini and portobello mushrooms - they all work beautifully. Whatever the case, it's easy and it's good.

So here you go dad - miso glaze. And thanks again for such a great time spent together - the best part of the meal!

Miso Glaze

• 1/4 cup miso paste (red or white - it doesn't matter)
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon honey (you could also use brown sugar)

Whisk all ingredients together; go forth and glaze!

Eggplant Red Curry

As mentioned (many times... sorry), I ate a lot of cooked vegetables in Laos as opposed to fresh. But don't you cry for me - I love cooked vegetables (when done right). And in Laos, the sheer variety of vegetable dishes and the ways in which they were prepared never left me lacking or feeling bored with my options. I especially ate a lot of eggplant. In Laos, eggplant comes in dozens of varieties - small, round and green; long thin and variegated; deep, dark and classic aubergine. My favorite take is a simple eggplant red curry, a dish so good that even my eggplant-hating, curry-despising husband will eat with gusto (who IS that man?).

I cobbled together my own semi-homemade recipe to approximate what I ate while in Laos; the ingredients can certainly be tweaked to suit your own tastes. But it's simple, it's tasty, and I can almost guarantee that if you didn't like eggplant before, this dish just might make you a convert. Worth a shot, right?

Eggplant Red Curry

• 1 large eggplant (or several of the smaller varieties), cubed
• 2-3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2+ tablespoons toasted sesame oil
• 1 15-ounce can coconut milk
• 3 tablespoons red curry paste (more or less depending on how much heat/flavor you like - I like a lot!)
• 1/2 cup fresh basil, finely shredded (chiffonade)
• Kosher salt

Start by placing the cubed eggplant in a colander and salting (salting will leach out the bitterness). Let sit to drain for a minimum of 30 minutes but up to an hour. In the meantime, combine the coconut milk and red curry paste; stir to blend well.

Place the sesame oil and minced garlic in a large skillet or wok. Slowly bring up the temperature to medium/medium-high, cooking until the garlic is soft and aromatic (be careful it doesn't burn). Add the eggplant; saute for 2-3 minutes until eggplant is lightly browned on all sides. Add the coconut milk/curry mixture, bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and simmer until the eggplant is soft and the curry has reduced by about a quarter. Add the basil chiffonade at the very end; serve immediately. Great with sticky rice!

This is a Stick-Up: Thai-Style Satay

I don't think you can talk about Thai food without mentioning the ubiquitous satay. Grilled meat on a stick, the most popular being steak, shrimp or chicken. It's entry-level Thai food; every Thai restaurant here in the states has it on the menu, and I dare say it's many a soul's easy introduction to Thai cuisine. And the restaurants aren't misrepresenting the simple dish - it's hugely popular and widely available in Thailand too.

Ironically, despite its prevalence, I don't recall eating it a single time while I was actually in Thailand. What? Can that be?

True or not, when I got home, I had a hankering for satay. Or maybe it was more a hankering for the peanut sauce to dip it in (just give me a spoon and stand back!). Whatever the case, I have my own Thai-inspired version that I just love, and has become a huge hit among my friends who have tried it.

My version is semi-homemade, using bottled yellow curry paste rather than making it from scratch (but if you're a purist and have oodles of time, knock yourself out and make your own yellow curry paste, recipe here). I also just buy prepared peanut sauce (again, for those who really want to go to all of the work to make it yourself, recipe here). But the commercial products will work just fine, and the end result is scrumptious! Just marinate your preferred meat item in the ingredients I list below, grill and enjoy.

Thai Satay Marinade
(Makes enough to marinate 1 pound of chicken, beef or shrimp)

• 1 15-ounce can coconut milk
• 3 tablespoons yellow curry paste (more or less, depending on your own taste... I like a lot!)
• 2 cloves garlic, pressed or crushed
• 1 teaspoon ginger, finely minced
• Salt, to taste

Combine the coconut milk and curry paste, whisk until smooth. Add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Pour over strips of chicken breast or steak; refrigerate for 1+ hour. Thread the meat onto bamboo skewers and grill. Serve with your favorite brand of peanut sauce for dipping.

Ad Hoc Fried Chicken Smackdown

It all started with this, a gift from my lovely friend Carolyn:

That's right - a fried chicken kit that had been available through Williams-Sonoma for a limited time created by none other than Chef Thomas Keller. It was, apparently, the ingredients for recreating his legendary Ad Hoc fried chicken, an every-other Monday night staple for Wine Country locals and in-the-know tourists. So since The Colonel isn't giving up his secret blend of eleven herbs and spices any time soon, Keller's kit represented the best chance I was going to have for making ridiculously good fried chicken from scratch.

But first, a little research was in order. For although I am a Napa Valley resident, well aware of the lure of the fried chicken Mondays up in Yountville, I had yet to make it to Ad Hoc to partake in the deep-fried ritual. I knew that before I made the kit version, I had to try the real thing.

The kit sat in my pantry for months before the perfect opportunity presented itself. Carolyn's brother Ted was in town for a few weeks, and Ted knows from deep frying. He lives in Texas (by choice), the home of Deep Fried Butter. He owns a turkey fryer. Puts it to use at least once a year for a "Fry Party" during which anything and everything gets a dunk: chicken wings, cheese, battered squash and mushrooms, bacon/cream cheese stuffed jalepenos, Monte Cristo sandwiches, bacon, battered fish, Twinkies, pickles... and that's just a partial list. He's as close to a deep fry expert that I'm ever going to rub elbows with, so I had to take advantage of his proximity. I booked a coveted spot at Ad Hoc for four (Carolyn, Ted, Randall and myself), and we blocked out some time the following weekend to prepare the homemade version. A fried chicken smackdown was in the making.

Ad Hoc is one high on my list of favorite Napa Valley restaurants. For those of you not familiar, it's Thomas Keller's take on fairly casual, family-style meals. According to its website: "The building at 6476 Washington Street was originally intended to be a very different type of restaurant. While we were designing it we thought we'd experiment by opening a temporary restaurant and calling it Ad Hoc, which literally means, 'for this purpose.' The idea for Ad Hoc was simple - five days a week we'd offer a four-course family-style menu that changed each day, accompanied by a small, accessible wine list in a casual setting reminiscent of home. We wanted a place to dine for our community and ourselves. The decision to change over the restaurant, however, was taken out of our hands by our guests. The response was so positive, we simply couldn't close. So, in September, 2007, we decided to stay open permanently and now we're serving dinner five nights a week as well as Sunday brunch."

While Ad Hoc reservations aren't as difficult to obtain as those for Keller's other joint up the street (a little place by the name of The French Laundry. You may have heard of it.), fried chicken night is a hot ticket item. I was lucky to get seats for our four butts without resorting to begging, shameless name dropping, or settling for the 9 p.m. reservation. It's a good thing, because I don't even know who's name I would drop. That would have been embarrassing.

So we get there without incident, ordered up some champagne (did you know that sparkling wine is the perfect accompaniment to fried foods? I wouldn't steer you wrong!), and dug in for Ad Hoc Fried Chicken Smackdown Round #1. The menu that night was as follows (notice I did not take a moment to record the actual menu - the inadequate descriptions are my own, not theirs, and the photos were surreptitiously taken with my little camera since I can't imagine pulling out my big, conspicuous camera when patronizing a restaurant):

• Salad of Belgian endive, spinach, pears, goat cheese and damn good homemade Green Goddess dressing
• Fried chicken with sides of herbed white rice (maybe Basmati?) and some sort of baked black bean/cauliflower/tomato/greens combo
• A cheese course with some variety of mild white cheese and a huckleberry chutney, served with toast points made with probably more butter than flour (that's a good thing)
• Two kinds of chocolate chip cookies (bitter dark chocolate in shortbread, plus a take on the standard milk chocolate variety) served with homemade vanilla ice cream with caramel sauce

Of course everything tasted great, and we had a fantastic time. Admittedly, I was a little taken aback by the choice of side dishes... no mashed potatoes? No collard greens? I guess I wanted a very stereotypical fried chicken dinner, but hey - this was Ad Hoc. What did I really care? It was all going to be good. But the whole point of this long-winded description is to get to the chicken. Was it phenomenal? Of course. It was probably the most moist fried chicken I've ever eaten, every bite juicy enough to send dribbles down my chin. The golden, crispy batter on the outside was perfectly cooked; I only had one piece that I found to be even this side of what I'd call greasy. And flavorful... oh-so-flavorful. One thing irked me however: there wasn't a single drumstick served on our platter. How in the world do you have a fried chicken dinner without the drumsticks? I'm a breast girl myself, so I wasn't sad about it, but really - no drumsticks? I don't get it.

Anyhow, knowing we were going to attempt to recreate this wheel in a mere six days, we got talking to our rather adorable waiter who was more than happy to supply us with the recipe from the kitchen so that we could compare/contrast it with the ingredients in the kit. Apparently, the brine recipe is no trade secret - call em up, they'll give it to you as well. Actually, I'll give it to you right here. We were told that they brine the chicken for 12 hours. The fact that we failed to get the coating recipe is a mere oversight on my part - I'm sure they would have given that to us as well. At the very least, here's what goes into a Thomas Keller chicken brine (it's a restaurant quantity recipe; I have no idea how you'd pare it down for a family-sized meal... but at least you can get an idea of the ingredients):

• 5 lemons, halved
• 24 Bay leaves
• 1 bunch flat leaf parsley
• 1 bunch thyme
• 1/2 cup clover honey
• 1 head of garlic, halved
• 1/4 cup peppercorns
• 2 cups Diamond Crystal salt

Fast forward to the following weekend, and our little group plus one (neighbor Gail also joined the fun) found ourselves in Carolyn's kitchen ready for Ad Hoc Fried Chicken Smackdown Round #2. Now to compare: the packaging for the kit reads, "Ad Hoc's signature lemon-herb brine and savory coating mix for making crispy, golden fried chicken." The brine ingredients were different from the restaurant version's ingredient list, but not too far off:

• Salt
• Granulated sugar
• Brown sugar
• Whole peppercorns
• Honey powder
• Garlic powder
• Parsley flakes
• Citric acid
• Bay leaves
• Thyme

And a little insight to the coating lies in the packaged ingredient list:

• Flour
• Garlic powder
• Onion powder
• Salt
• Paprika
• Cayenne pepper
• Black pepper

I followed the instructions to a "T." I brined our two organic 3.5-pound birds for 12 hours (the brine itself smelled divine). When the time came, we double-dredged the chicken: buttermilk followed by seasoned coating, rest, repeat. The dredging got a little ugly. Let's just say that our coating didn't go on in a smooth, even, thin layer. There were some clumps and bumps, and there wasn't quite enough of it to double dredge all of our various parts and pieces. But the majority got two layers, and even those pieces that only got one dip in the pool were well coated.

As for the frying, piece of cake! With Ted at the helm, we got the oil up to temp in a deep dutch oven and dropped in our chicken two or three pieces at a time. Ted's method for determining doneness was simply to pull the pieces out when they were crispy and golden, a method that proved to be fail proof.

This time around, I got my stereotypical fried chicken dinner. We had a spicy jicama slaw, smashed potatoes and braised Swiss chard, and washed it all down with yet more champagne. Dessert was one of Carolyn's awesome creations - a grapefruit zabaglione served over fresh berries. For the second time in a week, I was stuffing myself with an incredible meal, the centerpiece of which was deep fried. My body wasn't very appreciative (on both occasions, I felt terrible the next day), but my taste buds were on cloud nine.

So how did the homemade kit version compare with Keller's own? The verdict was divided; there was no clear winner in the Ad Hoc Fried Chicken Smackdown. Everyone agreed that both versions were delicious and extremely moist. The brine absolutely worked its magic in both instances. Randall and Carolyn preferred the restaurant version (Randall: better coating; Carolyn: better citrus flavor); whereas Ted and I both preferred the make-at-home version for the same reason: thicker, extra-crispy coating (if you think along the lines of KFC's original recipe vs. extra crispy, our version of Ad Hoc fried chicken was of the extra crispy variety. See dredging issues mentioned above.) Gail, our Smackdown #2 interloper, was just happy to be there and loved every bite.

So there you have it, a Smackdown where both sides come out ahead. This chicken is good no matter how you choose to enjoy it. Thanks Mr. Keller for not one - but two! - evenings of Fare to Remember.

So Much Sorrel, So Little Time, Part 2: Sorrel Pesto

If you read Part 1 of this little sorrel series, you know that I have too much of a good thing: a garden overflowing with beautiful French sorrel. Yumm-o! By overflowing, I mean more sorrel than my little household will ever use in a timely or realistic manner. So, pesto to the rescue!

I have been making pestos right and left with all of the bountiful herbs in my garden. Pestos are one of my favorite things to do with copious quantities of fresh herbs. They last and last (you can freeze or can them); are extremely versatile (I use them on pastas, meats of all kind, grilled veggies, sandwiches, omelets... too many uses to list!); and can be made in an endless variety of ways (just made a sage/walnut pesto that is amazing, if I say so myself). Pestos are a great way to brighten up your meals any time of year... but I know come January when fresh herbs and veggies are limited, I won't be hurting for vibrant flavors since I can just bust out a pesto or two from my frozen stash.

This sorrel pesto is a simple take on the classic basil pesto, using pinenuts, Parmesan cheese and olive oil. It is pictured served with a grilled tri-tip steak. Simple, and so, so good.

Bring it on January. Bring it on.

Sorrel Pesto

• 2 cups fresh sorrel leaves, rough chopped
  
• 1/2 cup pinenuts, toasted
• 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
• Kosher salt, to taste
• 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus 1-2 tablespoons olive oil for drizzling into food processor
  

Add all ingredients to a food processor fit with the flat blade. Blend until smooth, adding the reserved olive oil by drizzling into the pesto as it is being blended. The oil will act as an emulsifier and the finished project should be creamy, but not necessarily smooth, and have a thick, paste-like texture.

Sage Advice, Part 4: Drunk and Stuffed Grilled Pork Tenderloin

Drunk and stuffed. Sounds like how I've felt after many a good dinner party. Overindulgence... I've sure experienced my fair share. But in this instance, drunk and stuffed are actually really good attributes. They refer to a marinade built around a hard apple cider base, and a stuffing loaded with both sweet and savory ingredients - fresh pineapple sage being one of them.

This dish came about in true Fare to Remember fashion, where good food always means good company, and cooking equals community. My friend Hetta - a stellar cook and fellow shutter bug - was coming to spend the afternoon, and we were going to enjoy it by whipping up something fabulous for lunch. But not just any something - there were criteria: it had to be worthy of a blog post, and it had to utilize the fresh herbs in my garden, particularly, sage.

Now, if you own a copy of the Fare to Remember cookbook, you'll note that Hetta has a fabulous recipe therein for Pear, Gorgonzola and Sage Pizza (if you don't own the book - buy one - the pizza recipe alone makes it worth the price!). As much as I love that pizza, I put the kibosh on making it for her visit, really prefering to A) -try something new, and B) -grill something since it was Labor Day weekend. (Isn't grilling required the first weekend in September? I thought so.) So she and I got busy and bounced some ideas off of each other. She had just made a stuffed pork loin roast for hoardes of friends, and announced that it had been a huge success. Not only super tasty, but also an extremely affordable way to feed a crowd. Hers was marinated in a teryiaki sauce, stuffed with bread cubes, dried fruit and herbs, and then glazed with her homemade apricot jam. That got my wheels turning....

With her recipe as inspiration, I did a little train-of-thought reasoning: if pineapple sage was the herb I wanted to use, the dried fruit would naturally have to be.... (wait for it).... pineapple. The fresh fruit would then have to be... apple (like pineapple, but without the pine - no?). And since this whole apple theme had reared its head, a hard apple cider seemed only befiting as an ingredient around which to build a tropical/Asian/fusion marinade. Beyond that, I knew I wanted to use toasted oats in lieu of bread for the stuffing (I'm aiming for more whole grains in my diet). Logical, right? (Don't answer that.)

The result is this gorgeous tenderloin, literally exploding with flavor. We wound up using Hetta's homemade peach jam for the glaze, and the combination of flavors really turned out to be killer. The fruit was a wonderful sweet counterpoint to the savory pineapple sage, and the oats in the stuffing were a brilliant, nearly indistiguishable sustitute for bread. As you can see from the photo below, we had ourselves quite a little feast out on my patio, just the two of us. We may not have walked away drunk, but we sure stepped away from the table stuffed.


Drunk and Stuffed Grilled Pork Tenderloin

• Two 1-pound pork tenderloins (or one 2-pound pork loin roast); butterflied and pounded flat
• 1/4 cup peach jam, thinned with a tablespoon or so of pineapple juice or water, to be brushed on as a glaze
  

Marinade

• One 12-ounce bottle of hard apple cider (can be substituted with non-alchoholic apple cider)
• 1/2 cup soy sauce
• 1/4 cup pineapple juice
• 2 tablespoons Chinese five spice sauce
• 2 cloves garlic, pressed
• 1 cup fresh pineapple sage, chopped (can be substituted with regular sage)
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Combine all marinade ingredients and mix well. Pour the marinade over the pork tenderloins that have been placed in a deep casserole dish. Cover and refrigerate a minimum of 4 hours (I let mine marinate overnight). When ready to stuff the tenderloins, reserve the marinade for use in the stuffing and for basting.

Stuffing

• 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and diced small
• 1/2 cup dried pineapple, cut into small pieces
• 1/2 of a small red onion, diced small
• 1 cup whole oats, toasted (simply toast them in a pan on your stovetop over low heat)
• 1 cup fresh pineapple sage, chopped (can be substituted with regular sage)
  
• 1/2 cup pineapple juice
• Approximately 1/2 cup of the reserved tenderloin marinade (enough to make the stuffing moist)
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Remove the tenderloin from the marinade and lay flat. Spoon the stuffing mixture onto the loin; roll to assemble, taking care to tuck the ends in as you go. The end result will look like a fat little log - or the tenderloin before you butterflied it. Truss it with string so that it won't fall apart on the grill. Sear the loin on all sides over high heat on a grill that has been brushed with oil. Once seared, remove from direct heat and cook under a closed lid, turning/basting every 3-4 minutes until done, approximately 25 minutes. (Regarding direct heat: my grill has three burners. I cooked this tenderloin on the center burner. After the sear, I turned the center burner off completely, and turned the two side burners to medium. That was enough to provide good indirect heat with the lid closed to cook the tenderloing to its carmel-colored perfection.) For the final 5 minutes of cooking, brush with the peach jam to glaze.

Note: Since the tenderloin has been pounded thin, there's really no point in using a meat thermometer to gauge the internal temperature. You really just have to go on instinct to know when the tenderloin is perfectly cooked. It's a fine line between juicy and a little pink, to dry and overcooked. I can usually tell by feeling the meat if it's ready. My trick: Pinch the fatty tissue in that little gap between your outstretched forefinger and thumb; once the pork has a similar consistency, it's perfect!

Lighten Up Already: Guilt-Free Bacon Cheeseburgers (They're Turkey!)

So Randall and I were sitting around watching the Food Network one night (yep... we live it up alright!), and lo and behold: Rachel Ray busted out a 30-Minute Meal that had both of us salivating. She made these ridiculous double cheeseburgers topped with bacon and a roasted tomato chutney... but that were considerably more healthy than the heart-attack-in-a-wrapper you'd get at the corner fast food joint. Her secret: she used all turkey (ground turkey breast patties, turkey bacon), and substituted an English muffin for a normal bun.

Now I've made turkey burgers a million times before - they're one of my favorites. The difference this time around was that Randall, not usually a fan of ground turkey, was really keen to the idea after seeing Rachel's episode. The iron was hot, so I struck. I bought turkey burger ingredients the very next day.

I didn't actually go back and research or follow Rachel's recipe; her show simply provided the inspiration for the ones I made, pictured above. I loaded up the ground turkey breast with heaps of herbs and spices; they were juicy and flavorful and every bit as satisfying as a normal beef burger - maybe even more so! All I know is that if I can get a turkey burger past my beef-loving DH - the recipe is a keeper.

So, if grilling is in your plans over this nice long holiday weekend coming up, give these a whirl. Your taste buds - and your waistline - will thank you!

Guilt-Free Turkey Bacon Cheeseburgers

• 1 pound ground turkey breast
• 1 egg
  
• 1/4 cup fresh sage, chopped
• 1/2 of a medium red onion, chopped fine
• 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
• 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1 teaspoon chili powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
  
• 1/2-cup bread crumbs (optional)
  
• 8 slices turkey bacon, precooked
  
• 4 slices low-fat or fat-free cheddar cheese slices (good ones exist these days!)
• 4 English muffins, toasted
• Burger toppings and condiments of your choosing: tomatoes, sliced onion, avocado, lettuce, pickles, mustard, etc.
  

In a large bowl, combine the ground turkey, egg, onion, and all the herbs and spices. Mix thoroughly. If the mixture is too loose to form patties, add the breadcrumbs as a binder. Form 4 patties, and grill over medium heat until cooked entirely through, approximately 6-7 minutes per side. Unlike beef burgers... there is no "medium rare" when it comes to poultry burgers - cook them all the way through folks! During the last stages of grilling, place two bacon strips on top of each patty; cover the bacon with a slice of cheese and let melt. Use the English muffins as the buns, and top according to your individual tastes.

Chipotle Prawn Tostadas

I have no great back story about these tostadas, only that they're freakin' delicious. They are a creation of mine that is super healthy, and a gives you a perfect place to hide loads of veggies from the veggie-averse (like children. And husbands). Also a bonus: the salad mixture that tops the baked tortillas is great all on its own, and since it's made with kale (as oposed to lettuce) - it keeps really, really well for a couple of days in the refrigerator without going soggy. As is typical for me, this dish doesn't really have a recipe, just a few guidelines to create a tasty, healthy dish that will please the masses.

Chiptole Prawn Tostadas

• Use taco-sized corn or flour tortillas; I found a great chipotle-flavored tortilla made from a corn/flour blend. Brush each tortilla with olive oil and bake in a 350-degree oven for 15-20 minutes until crisp. 
• For the salad, combine a healthy amount of chopped kale (center stalk removed) with one 15-ounce can of black beans (drained), one 15-ounce can of mandarin orange segments, 1/2 of a red onion (chopped fine), 4-6 Roma tomatos (diced), 1 cucumber (peeled, seeded and diced) and 1-2 avocados (diced; add very last to keep from browning or getting mushy). Dress the salad with a glug of olive oil, the juice of 3-4 fresh-squeezed limes, chopped garlic (to taste), a 1/2-teaspoon or so of ground cumin, and salt (to taste). Toss and let stand for a minimum of an hour to let the flavors develop. 
• Peel and devein the prawns; season with a dusting of chipotle chili powder, garlic powder, black pepper and salt. Grill, saute or broil until cooked. 
• To assemble: place a heap of the salad atop the tostada shell; top with prawns.

Fire. Sticks. Meat. Dinner!

I'll admit it: I enjoy a few of humankind's most basic, primal pleasures. Namely, cooking things over a fire on a stick (what did you think I meant?). Because I so enjoy the finer art of cave-woman cookery, I consider myself pretty well-versed in all things cooking stick-related. But apparently, I'm still in the Stone Age. Just recently, it was brought to my attention that you can get flavor-infused cooking skewers: kabob skewers that have been pre-seasoned with everything from hickory smoke and honey bourbon, to Thai coconut lime and ginger mango. A cave-woman should be so lucky.

When I happened upon these modern marvels, of course I had to get some to try. Made by Callison's and simply called Seasoned Skewers, the packaging and marketing buzz claimed a well-seasoned meal was to be had simply by stabbing these sticks into the meat or veggies of your choice and giving them 15 minutes to do their thing. I got the hickory smoke flavor, and skewered away.

The steak kabobs I made were gussied up with a little spice rub and finished with a mopping of Guiness BBQ sauce, but I made a couple "control" kabobs of naked meat and naked veggies as well, to see how much flavor the skewers did, in fact, impart on their own.

Happy to report: the seasoned skewers did their job. The control kabobs came out with a nice smoky, hickory flavor. It wasn't very strong, but certainly it was there and did liven up their unseasoned subjects. The one downside that I found to these skewers was that they were so darn thick, that it was nearly impossible to string up the veggies. I had cut up some squash and mushrooms in very generous sizes, and still they split in half when I attempted to put them on the skewers. So, for what it's worth, if you want to give these seasoned skewers a try, you're better off just impaling meat. The caveman or woman in you will be proud.

Oh the Pasta-Bilities: Croxetti with Walnut Cream Pesto

Leave it to my mom to spot the obscure pasta from across the room. During her recent trip to visit me in Napa, we were wandering the aisles of one of the many gourmet specialty shops in town, when she spied the plain brown paper packaging of a Genovese import. Called croxetti, the pasta is stunning: beautiful little coins about the size of a silver dollar, lightly embossed with a floral insignia. The package stated that the pasta was "ideal with pesto," but listed a recipe for a Walnut Sauce. Feeling adventurous - and hungry - we decided that we'd go home and make the walnut sauce, and if disaster ensued, we could top it with one of the many pestos that line the shelves of my fridge.

We didn't have to resort to Plan B, but almost. After assembling and prepping the ingredients as listed for the walnut sauce on the package, it became pretty clear that the recipe had been originally written in Italian... and was not very well translated. There was nothing resembling a sauce coming together in the kitchen. Not even close. Needless to say, we improvised.

The result is a walnut cream pesto. We figured that since the package claimed the croxetti's affinity for pesto, we couldn't go wrong. And it was good, especially when we added some fresh Italian Oregano to give the pesto a little color and depth of flavor. And if you can't find croxetti, just use it on your favorite pesto-friendly pasta (fettucini, for example).

Walnut Cream Pesto

• 2 1/2 cups shelled walnuts
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish.
  
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1/4-1/2 cup olive oil
• Fresh Italian Oregano leaves, to taste
• Salt and pepper, to taste

In a bowl, pour boiling water over the walnuts (enough to cover them); let soak for 3 minutes and then drain. Add the softened nuts and Parmesan cheese to the mixing bowl of a food processor. Pulse several times to chop and combine. Add the heavy cream and 1/4 cup of olive oil; blend to a paste. Add more olive oil if the pesto is too dry. Add oregano and seasonings to taste; toss with croxetti or your favorite pasta. Top with additional shavings of Parmesan.

BBQ Buzz: Grilled Pork Loin with Coffee-Spice Rub and Apricot Sauce

I read an article in the San Francisco Chronicle not too long ago extolling the virtues of using coffee or espresso in recipes. Ever since that day, I haven't been able to walk past a Starbucks without thinking of dry rubs and marinades.

The Chronicle article gave a basic coffee rub recipe for a grilled pork; that recipe was the launching point for my own spicier version. And naturally, with all of the gorgeous stone fruit in season right now, I thought that pairing the smoky, aromatic rub with a simple fruit sauce would be a gorgeous complement of flavors. Happy to report that my instincts were right. Apricots won the spot in the sauce thanks to their vibrant color and subtle sweetness, and a robust French roast claimed the spotlight in the rub.

The finished product was a roast that was beautifully and deeply stained from the dark rub, but incredibly moist and flavorful. It was so good, in fact, even my dog couldn't resist from helping himself (and that's another story entirely... but for any of you that know my dog, you know exactly what happened). Canine belly aches aside, this recipe is smokin'! I suggest you give it a try, but keep it all to yourself (sorry pooches!).

Grilled Pork Loin with Coffee-Spice Rub and Apricot Sauce

• 2-pound pork loin roast
• Oil, for cooking

Coffee-Spice Rub

• 3 tablespoons ground French roast coffee
• 1 1/2 tablespoons smoked paprika
• 1/2 tablespoon chili powder
• 1 1/2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

In a small bowl, combine rub ingredients; rub all over meat (there may be extra). Cover the pork loin and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before grilling.

Preheat a gas grill on high or prepare coals until hot. If using coals, bank the coals around the perimeter once hot. Oil the grate and the pork loin. Sear the pork over high heat on each side for 3 minutes, turning only once. Reduce the grill temperature to medium-low, or ideally (using a multi-burner gas grill), turn off the flame entirely directly beneath the loin and reduce the side burners to medium in order to provide indirect heat. Continue to rotate the pork loin every five minutes or so; cook until the internal temperature in the thickest part of the loin reaches 150 degrees. Remove from the grill and let rest; the temperature will continue to rise. The roast is finished when the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees. Slice and serve with Apricot Sauce.

Apricot sauce

• 1 1/2 pounds apricots, pitted
• Squeeze of fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon sugar, to taste
• Dash of salt, to taste
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch

Place apricots in blender and puree until smooth. Run the puree through a fine mesh sieve to remove any pulp or chunks. Transfer to a sauce pan and heat to a low boil. Reduce to a simmer and add remaining ingredients, whisking to combine. Reduce by 1/4 or to your desired consistency.

Reaching Your Grill Potential: Pizza

When it comes to pizza, I'm not exactly, um... discriminating. I'll eat just about anything with a crust and cheese. I do have my favorite styles, of course (honestly, you can't beat a perfectly-executed Neapolitan-style pie, with it's thin, blistery wood-fired crust), but really, it's hard for me to walk away from pizza of any variety. (Guilty pleasure admission: $2 slices at Costco. Don't judge.)

That being said, rarely do I make pizza at home (why bother? very nice kids will deliver it right to your door in under an hour), but when I do, there's really only one method: I cook it on the grill. I suppose it's my own way of getting that wood-fired flavor without the luxury of having my own pizza oven (and for my friends who do - and you know who you are - let's fire it up already, sheesh!!). Making pizza on the grill is simple, and as with any pizza, the topping combinations are only as endless as your imagination. There really is no recipe, just some basic instuctions on technique:

• Go easy on yourself - use pre-made pizza dough. I get mine at Trader Joes, of course.
  
• Form the pizza dough in to a big round ball, and then roll it in cornmeal. The cornmeal will not only help to provide some structure to the elastic dough as you stretch it, helping it to maintain its shape, it will also give the crust an added bit of tasty crunch.
• Don't be concerned about shape. Without the aid of a pizza pan, your pie will almost certainly not be round. Just stretch the dough to your preferred thickness as best you can - take whatever shape you get.
  
• Throw the stretched dough directly onto a very hot oiled grill. Don't touch it - let it cook for approximately 5 minutes on the first side. If you try to move it too early, you'll end up with a gloppy sticky mess.
  
• Once the first side has cooked sufficiently enough where you can lift the entire sheet of dough, flip it and turn the heat to low. Add your sauce and toppings (pre-cook any toppings that might require it since cooking time for a pizza on the grill is short; for instance, in the pie pictured, I sauteed the mushrooms in advance with a little crushed garlic).
• Once your sauce and toppings are in place, close the lid of the grill and let the pie bake to perfection. The pie is done when the dough is cooked throughout and the bottom is toasted with grill marks.
  

The pie pictured here is a beautiful example of what good results look like, and in fact, it might just be my favorite pizza I've ever created. It was topped with alfredo sauce; heaps of various gourmet mushroom varieties like morel, chantrelle, shiitake and porcini (acquired at the Berkeley Bowl, mentioned in a previous post); fontina cheese, and fresh Wedgewood thyme from my brand new herb garden. I'd be happy to make it again (twist my arm)... just let me know when you want to come over!

Get Out! Cooking in the Great Outdoors

Since my recent post about cooking Orange Brownies in the ashes of a campfire, I've gotten a deluge of requests for good camping recipes. So, just in time for the 4th of July holiday when many of us will be heading for the hills, here's a quick run-down of a few tips, tricks and recipes to keep in mind when you're roughing it in Ye Olde Woods.

My theory is simple: you may be a bit removed from civilization when you're camping, but that's no reason civilization needs to be removed from your meals. Granted, we can all subsist on the basics for a few days in the wilderness, but it honestly doesn't take all that much more effort to make delicious and healthy meals, even with dirt beneath your fingernails.

Note of explanation: This post will focus solely on cooking when you're "car camping" (a term not often used outside of California, I might add). By car camping, I mean you pull your car, RV or trailer into a spot and park it. You might sleep in a tent, but you can haul along some creature comforts - like an ice chest and a lounge chair. And a case of wine. You know, the necessities.

That being said, the ideas to follow require minimal refrigeration and minimal gear - everything can be done either right over the fire on a grill rack; in the fire directly on coals or ashes; and/or on a one-burner butane or propane camp stove (or if you're going even lighter, a backpacking stove - my favorite: the JetBoil - worth every penny). If you're interested in backpacking meals or Dutch Oven cooking.... well, those are posts for another time. (Let me know if you are interested - I certainly have plenty of great recipes for those situations as well!).

Getting Started
Assemble a camping "spice rack." I have a convenient tote all loaded up with my favorite dried herbs and spices: garlic salt, basil, oregano, thyme, dill, cilantro, black pepper, kosher salt, red chili flakes, chili powder, mustard powder, ginger powder, wasabi powder, harissa (paste or powder), curry powder, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice. Even if you do nothing more than grill up chicken breasts, if you have a loaded spice rack, you can have exotic flavors with minimal effort.

Get Cooking
Grilling is probably the most obvious means of camp cooking. I always have ingredients on hand to whip up a variety of marinades - it's easy way to add varied flavors to basic staples like chicken breasts, steaks, fish or veggies. Usually this requires nothing more than some fresh citrus, olive oil, and the aforementioned spices. All you do is combine the marinade ingredients to your taste in a ziplock bag; throw in your meat and/or veggies and coat them well; let chill for 20-30 minutes (or more) in your ice chest, then grill over white-hot coals.

Here's a few of my favorite flavor combinations for marinades (combine with olive oil):

• lemon juice, basil, pepper
• garlic, cilantro, orange juice
• tarragon, shallots, Dijon, lemon juice
• chili powder, garlic, lime juice

My Go-To Camping Meals

• Beer Can Chicken - Sacrifice one of the cans of MGD from your stash; beer can chicken tastes amazing around the camp fire. The beer imparts flavor, sure, but more importantly, it imparts moisture. It's the most tender chicken you'll ever have. In order to cook it evenly, place the grill rack close to bottom of the fire, and build a ring of hot, hot coals to provide indirect heat to the bird. Without the aid of BBQ lid, I then tent the chicken with tin foil to create an "oven" effect and keep the heat contained. It can take a couple of hours for the bird to completely cook - but it's so worth it. Make sure you stay on top of rotating the coals, adding new hot ones to replace dying cold ones. And you don't need a fancy roasting rack - just make sure the chicken is balanced vertically on the beer can and the rack is level. And don't bump it.
  
  
• Thai-Style Chicken Satay and Curried Vegetable Skewers - Season chicken tenders and veggies of your choice with a mix of ginger powder, garlic powder, curry powder and oil; thread them on skewers and grill. Bring along a small jar of peanut sauce, and you've got the flavors of Asia in the middle of Yellowstone. Serve it all over a bed of rice that you cook up on your propane stove.
  
  
• Pizza - There's a million ways to grill pizza on the campfire. My favorite is to use raw pizza dough and actually grill it on the rack. You grill the dough on one side, and add the sauce and toppings when you flip it. You can also make it even easier by using pre-baked flat bread or naan as a crust. A simple tomato sauce couldn't be easier: a can of tomato sauce, seasoned with garlic, oregano, basil and pepper; the toppings, of course, can be whatever you want, but a few that travel really well and don't require additional cooking include pepperoni, canadian bacon, prosciuttio, canned black olives, onions, bell peppers, zucchini and canned artichoke hearts. Don't forget the cheese.
  
  
• Grilled Sausages with Peppers and Onions - Grill up the sausage of your choice over the fire (I like chicken sausages) and top with a medley of peppers and onions that you've sauteed in a saucepan on your stove. You can pop them in a hoagie bun if you'd like - but it's certainly not required. In that same vein, grill up chicken, steak or shrimp with Mexican spices (cumin, chili powder, garlic) for Fajitas. Serve with tortillas and the same sauteed peppers and onions.
  
  
• Ash Cakes - This has got to be one my favorite camp treats. You simply take pre-made bread or pizza dough (available in your grocer's freezer), break it off into individual-sized servings, flatten into round disks, and literally throw the dough on top of a bed of white hot ashes, turning once. The outer layer will char and blister, but the ash will brush right off. Top it with butter and honey - heaven! Best. Breakfast. Ever.
  
  
• Grilled Corn with Chili and Lime - Husk ears of sweet, ripe corn and grill until the kernels are plump and juicy. Then forget you even know about butter - you don't need it. Instead, take a wedge of lime, dunk it in chili powder, and then run it up and down the length of the corn cob, squeezing as you go. The juice of the lime will spread the chili powder into the rows of kernels, giving you the most flavorful corn on the cob you've ever eaten. Guaranteed.
  
  
• Foil Dinners - The possibilities for hobo-style foil dinners are endless. They work especially well with chicken or fish (like the salmon foil dinner, pictured above). Use a couple layers of heavy-duty foil, and just add ingredients that will have similar cooking times (chicken works well with diced potatoes; fish works well with pre-cooked brown rice or raw minute rice). Add slices of lemon or lime, seasonings from your spice rack, and veggies of your choice. Seal it all up tight, and place amidst the coals. The juices will steam everything until it's tender and cooked through, and in no time at all, you've got a complete meal in one convenient foil package.
  

• Cornbread in a Can - This is really fun and super easy, but you do need a couple of different sized tin cans for each individual serving. I make things simple and use the Jiffy brand cornbread mix (I think you only have to add an egg and some water). Fill a small soup-sized empty tin can (10-12 ounce size; oil the sides and bottom) about halfway with the cornbread batter. Place that small can completely inside a larger empty tin can (20-ounce size or so) of which the bottom has been lined with about a 1/2-inch of pebbles or sand (helps keep the bottom of the cornbread from burning). Cover it all with foil and place it in the ashes to bake. It'll take about 10-15 minutes for fresh corn bread.
  

• Fire Nachos - Saute some lean ground beef or turkey on your camp stove, seasoning with Mexican spices (garlic, chili powder, cumin). Place a layer of sand or pebbles on the bottom of a large cast iron pan or dutch oven, then line with tin foil. On top of the foil, start layering nacho ingredients: tortilla chips, black beans (from a can, drained), diced tomatoes, jalepeno peppers (from a can, drained), sliced black olives, the cooked ground meat and cheese. Cover the whole shebang with a sheet of tin foil, and place amongst hot coals or in hot ash, and cook until warm throughout and the cheese has melted.
  

Anyhow - that's really just the tip of the iceberg of camping recipes, but I had to start somewhere! How about you? If you have any recipes or ideas to share, please include them in the comments below for all to see. I'd love to hear how you survive in the wild!

I'm Game!

I don't know about you, but when an invitation arrives for a grilled meat fest, I say yes. Immediately. That was the case recently when my friend Betsy announced that her parents were loading up their Suburban with fresh Minnesota trout, salmon, steelhead, venison and wild turkey and packing it West, for the sole purpose of hosting a good ol' Midwestern cookout for Betsy's uninitiated California friends. It was like all of Betsy's childhood comfort foods were pulling up to her doorstep, with plenty to go around. Needless to say, I cleared my schedule.

Betsy's dad is the hunter/fisherman/grill sergeant; her mom is the kitchen commander. Between the two of them, they put on quite a spread. Between the smoked salmon and wild turkey pâtés, the savory Jell-o salad (that's right - a lemon Jell-o and herb concoction), and the heaps and heaps of grilled meat and fish, the eating and socializing went on for hours. There were two choices of grilled fish (both steelhead and trout from Lake Superior); slices of venison loin that melted in your mouth, and wild turkey breast on skewers that would have done Paul Bunyan proud. Everything was beautifully marinated, seasoned and cooked - but I was too busy gorging (and listening to the hunting and fishing tales that accompanied each course) that I didn't even remember to beg for a recipe. (That's probably ok - not sure I'll have access to fresh venison any time soon!)

But in the spirit of why I created Fare to Remember, where community is all about sharing good times and making good memories over splendid meals, this one tops the charts. Thanks Mueller clan for the invitation - I hope I can return the gesture someday!

Smoked Trout

Venison Loin

Two Words: Bacon Bread

This is just a parting shot for the week - an ode to the last loaf of bacon bread I will ever buy. Yep - that's right, I said Bacon. In Bread. The Model Bakery in Napa makes this ridiculously good French loaf chock full of tasty, fresh bacon (supplied by their Oxbow next-door neighbor, The Fatted Calf). It's only available on the weekends, and I've succumbed twice (how could I not? It's carbs AND pork fat, for crying out loud). As much as I love it, my lardy ways need to stop.

So... I made this hella good open-faced bacon-avocado-tomato-gruyere toasted sandwich to celebrate all that is good and right with artisan baking, and to hopefully get this bacon bread obsession out of my system! Although... come to think of it, I never did make that bacon bread French toast I've been dreaming about... damn. So I guess if someone wanted some, I'd be willing to swing by the bakery to pick up a loaf... for you. Really - for you...

More than a Sandwich: Grilled Veggie Stacker with Sriracha Spread on Gluten-Free Sprouted Seed Bread

I have my friend Kristin to thank, in part, for this sandwich. She's a fabulous cook, who happens to know all too well about the gluten-free lifestyle. A week or so ago, she came to me extolling the virtues of the baked goods from a local gluten-free bakery, the Grindstone Bakery in Sonoma County. Specifically, she said that I needed to try their bread, the likes of which she found to be exceptional (and that's saying a lot - gluten free breads often, shall we say, leave a lot to be desired in terms of mouthfeel and texture, despite great flavor). She said she had made a sandwich using the bread, and that the bread played a starring role, not just the usual supporting role that bread takes as it thrusts its fillings into the limelight.

So I trudged off like a good little soldier to find me a loaf, and came home with the heaviest hunk of dough I think I've ever held in my hands (one beautiful, small loaf weighs in at a hefty 24 ounces!). I opted for a "sprouted seeds" variety, made of organic quinoa and millet, and rolled in sprouted pumpkin, sesame and sunflower seeds.

The packaging has this to say: "At Grindstone we have returned to ancient bread making methods because we belive that food has a memory: if you treat it kindly, it will treat your body the same way. Hands for mixing, kneading and shaping sough; an old stone mill for gentle grinding of the whole grains; the ancient method of slow natural fermentation, and a custom wood-fired brick oven: those are the tools we use to make our loaves of love."

There was no doubt that the loaf was gorgeous; I was certainly intrigued. But what kind of sandwich to make? I'm rarely a sandwich kind of person; but even so, knew that my go-to PB&J just wasn't the right fit. And then I stumbled upon this:

A stunning heap of squash at the farmers market. Gorgeous orbs and obelisks of numerous shapes and varieties. I knew on the spot I had to purchase a couple, and a lightbulb went off: a grilled veggie sandwich would fit the bill nicely. I walked away with a two eight-ball squash (one green, one yellow), and rounded out the ingredient list with red bell pepper, Anaheim chile, portobello mushroom and red onion, and dreamed up a simple, spicy sriracha spread to slather on for good measure.

It turned out to be sublime. The smoky, charred veggies held up to the tangy, substantial bread, and the sriracha spread just gave everything a nice kick. And the bread was unique, for sure. Dense, toothy, and full of flavor and crunch. I had toasted the bread slabs on the grill as well, so the whole sandwich was warm and hearty - but incredibly healthy.

If you live in the area, it's worth seeking out the bread. But don't despair if you're nowhere near Sonoma County! This sandwich would still be excellent on any good artisan loaf out there. So the next time you fire up the grill, load it up with veggies and dig in!

Grilled Veggie Stacker with Sriracha Spread on Gluten-Free Sprouted Seed Bread
(makes 3-4 sandwiches)

• 1 loaf Grindstone Bakery sprouted seed bread, sliced
• 2 eight-ball squash, sliced
  
• 1 portobello mushroom
• 2 Anaheim chiles
• 1 red bell pepper
• 1 red onion, sliced thick
• Olive oil, for coating
• Salt and pepper, to taste
  
• 4 ounces (half a brick) of cream cheese (lite variety ok too!), room temperature
  
• 1 tablespoon +/- sriracha pepper sauce

Start by roasting the red bell pepper and Anaheim chiles over high heat on the grill until the skins are blackened and blistered all over. Pull from the grill and immediately put into a plastic bag (this will help sweat the skin away from the flesh of the peppers so it can easily be peeled away). Once cool enough to handle, remove skins and slice.

Lightly coat the mushroom, squash slices and red onion with olive oil; season with salt and pepper, to taste. Grill over medium heat until tender. Slice the mushroom (I like to cook portobellos whole and slice them when they are cooked - it makes for easier grilling).

Lightly brush the bread slices with olive oil; grill until heated through.

For the sriracha spread, cream together the cream cheese and sriracha sauce. Remember, a little of the sriracha goes a long way, so add a little as you go until the spread reaches your desired level of heat.

To assemble the sandwiches, slather one or both of the pieces of bread with the sriracha spread, then layer with the veggies.

Cherry On Top: Grilled Pork Chops with Cherry Zinfandel Sauce

It's cherry season! Cherries are one of my favorite fruits, hands down, and I relish this time of year when I can get them fresh. In my neck of the woods, cherry stands sprout up on street corners, and my fingernails wear the tell-tale pink stain of the fruit's dark red juice.

I'm always looking for ways to incorporate cherries into just about anything, and this recipe has no inspiration other than that. I had big, fat pork chops in the fridge; a fresh pint basket of cherries in my market basket; and half a bottle of day-old zinfandel on the counter. Voila! A recipe is born.

After making the sauce (and spooning up every last drop!), I can tell you that it would be delicious on many things other than pork - chicken, duck, beef.... cardboard (grin!). Reduce it even more (from a sauce into more of a glaze), and it would even be a wonderful dessert topper (like ice cream, or pound cake). One thing is for sure - anything is sweeter with a cherry on top! Enjoy!

Grilled Pork Chops with Cherry Zinfandel Sauce
(makes enough sauce for two servings, but you can double accordingly)

• 2 thick-cut boneless pork chops, seasoned with salt and pepper to taste
  
• 1 cup zinfandel wine
  
• 1 cup balsamic vinegar
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 2+ heaping tablespoons sour cream
• 1 cup sweet cherries (such as Bing), pitted and halved
  

Season the chops with salt and pepper to taste; grill until the chops reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees (remove from grill at about 155 degrees; allow meat to rest and come up to its final temperature of 160).

For the sauce, combine the zinfandel and the balsamic vinegar in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a low boil; reduce heat and bring down to a simmer. When the liquid has reduced by half (approximately +/-20 minutes), add the butter and sugar and stir as they melt (taste the sauce at this point; add a dash more sugar if it's still too tart). Once melted, add the sour cream and whisk vigorously to incorporate. Add the cherries. Let the sauce continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until it has reduced enough to coat a spoon without breaking. Serve over the top of the chops. Mmm.

In Anticipation of Summer: Tomato, Herb and Cheese Tart

I recently found myself in the awesome position of having a huge heap of beautiful, ripe hothouse tomatoes - and only three days in which I could consume them before taking off for vacation. During this time of year when tomatoes are not in season, these gorgeous red, orange and yellow orbs were juicy, flavorful cherished gems - a foreshadowing of summer. Not wanting them to go to waste, I promptly ate one apple-style with a sprinkling of salt, and then set out concocting this recipe to use up a few more. There's not much to say about it, except that it's easy, delicious, and beautiful - a stunning centerpiece for any meal. Enjoy.

Tomato, Herb and Cheese Tart

• 1 frozen pie crust (if you're ambitious enough to make your own pie crust, more power to you!)
  
• 3 large tomatoes, sliced thin
  
• 3 large tomatoes, diced small
  
• 2 eggs
• 2 egg whites
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 ounce goat cheese, dime-sized pieces
  
• 6-10 large basil leaves, chopped (more or less, to taste)
• 2-4 sprigs of rosemary, leaves stripped and chopped (more or less, to taste)
• freshly ground pepper, to taste
  

Precook the pie crust according to package directions, until the crust has taken on a golden color and is firm on the bottom.

Lay the sliced tomatoes out on paper towels and sprinkle them with salt. The salt will help to leech away much of the moisture. Pat dry and repeat several times until the slices are fairly dry. Place the diced tomatoes in a colander and sprinkle with salt, also to help remove excess moisture. Let the tomatoes drain for a good 20 minutes.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs and egg whites. Add the cream, chopped herbs, Parmesan cheese and diced tomatoes (use your hands to squeeze out any excess moisture from the tomatoes that wasn't drained in the colander); stir to combine.

To assemble the tart, place the diced tomato mixture in the precooked crust; distribute evenly. Tuck the coins of goat cheese into the mixture, distributing evenly throughout. Arrange the sliced tomatoes on top in a decorative pattern. Return tart to a preheated 300-degree oven and bake for 1 hour, or until center is cooked through. If the edges of the crust start to get too dark, cover with foil. Remove from heat and allow to cool and fully set before serving.